What Is a Size Set Sample?

A size set sample is a group of garments produced in multiple sizes from the graded patterns of an approved style.

For example, a sportswear order might be offered in:

XS – S – M – L – XL – 2XL – 3XL

After the Medium fit is approved, the pattern maker creates the other sizes using predetermined grading rules.

The size set allows the buyer and manufacturer to check whether those rules produced sensible garments.

Depending on the product, buyer and factory workflow, the size set may include:

• every production size, or
• selected representative sizes such as the smallest size, base size and largest size.

Both approaches are used in apparel development. A full size run provides greater verification, while selected sizes may be appropriate where the risk is lower or the grading system is already well established.

Fit Sample vs Size Set vs Pre-Production Sample

These samples are related, but they do not prove the same thing.

A fit sample therefore cannot completely replace a size set.

Likewise, a size set should not be treated simply as a final production sample.

Factories and brands may also use different terminology and may position the size-set and PP stages differently in their workflow. The important thing is to define what must be approved before bulk cutting, rather than relying only on the name of the sample.

Why Approving Only One Size Can Be Risky

Imagine a football jersey is developed in size Medium.

The Medium fits perfectly.

The chest, shoulder, sleeve, neck and body length are all approved.

The manufacturer then grades the pattern from M into:

XS, S, L, XL, 2XL and 3XL.

That sounds straightforward, but garment grading is not simply enlarging or reducing the entire pattern by the same percentage.

Different areas of a garment may change by different amounts.

For example, going from M to L might involve:

• +3 cm half-chest
• +2 cm body length
• +1 cm sleeve length
• +0.5 cm neck width
• changes to armhole depth
• changes to shoulder width
• changes to sleeve shape

The garment therefore has to remain proportionally balanced, not merely larger.

A size set gives the technical team an opportunity to verify that this happened correctly.

What Garment Grading Actually Does

Grading converts an approved base-size pattern into a range of smaller and larger patterns.

Consider this simplified jersey specification:

The chest is graded by 3 cm per size, while length increases by 2 cm and sleeve length by 1 cm.

That progression is the grading rule.

But a correct spreadsheet does not automatically mean the physical garments will look or fit correctly.

The size set verifies the result after those measurements are translated into real patterns, cut fabric and sewn garments.

A Size Set Should Check More Than Measurements

One of the biggest mistakes buyers make is treating size-set approval as:

Measure garment → numbers pass → approve.

Measurements are important, but grading can create problems even when individual Points of Measurement remain within tolerance.

The reviewer should look at three things together:

1. Measurement Accuracy

Does each garment meet its size specification within the agreed tolerance?

2. Grade Progression

Do measurements increase or decrease logically from one size to the next?

3. Garment Proportion

Does the actual shape still make sense?

A 3XL jersey can technically achieve the required chest width while having an armhole, neck opening or sleeve proportion that looks wrong.

That is why size-set review should combine the spec sheet with visual and fit evaluation.

The Most Important Measurements to Check in Sportswear

The correct Points of Measurement depend on the product.

Sports Jerseys and Training Tops

Typical measurements include:

• half chest
• body length
• shoulder width
• sleeve length
• sleeve opening
• armhole
• neck width
• front neck drop
• bottom opening

Shorts

Common checks include:

• relaxed waist
• extended waist
• hip
• front rise
• back rise
• inseam
• outseam
• thigh
• leg opening

Leggings and Compression Bottoms

You may need to check:

• relaxed waist
• hip
• thigh
• knee
• calf
• ankle opening
• front and back rise
• inseam
• total length

Tracksuit Jackets

Important POMs can include:

• chest
• shoulder
• centre-back length
• sleeve length
• armhole
• cuff opening
• bottom opening
• collar height

The buyer’s tech pack should define exactly where each measurement is taken. Otherwise, the buyer and factory can measure the same garment differently and obtain different results.

Check the Grade Between Sizes—not Just Whether Each Size Passes

This is one of the most useful checks a buyer can perform.

Suppose the approved chest specification is:

The intended grade is +3 cm per size.

Now imagine the size-set samples actually measure:

If the tolerance is ±1 cm, every garment might individually pass.

But look at the actual progression:

• S → M = +1.4 cm
• M → L = +4.6 cm
• L → XL = +1.4 cm

Something is inconsistent.

Individual pass/fail checks can therefore hide a grading or manufacturing problem.

When reviewing a size set, compare size-to-size increments as well as absolute measurements.

Make Sure Tolerances Do Not Destroy Your Size Separation

Tolerance and grading have to work together.

Suppose:

Medium chest = 53 cm ±2 cm

Large chest = 56 cm ±2 cm

The acceptable ranges become:

M: 51–55 cm

L: 54–58 cm

A 55 cm Medium and a 54 cm Large can both pass inspection.

Your labeled Medium can now physically measure larger than your labeled Large.

For equal symmetrical tolerances, a useful check is:

2 × tolerance < grade between sizes

If chest grading is 3 cm, a ±2 cm tolerance is therefore too loose if you want to preserve clear separation between adjacent sizes.

This is one reason tolerances should be reviewed when the graded size specification is created—not added casually after the size chart is finished.

Why the Smallest and Largest Sizes Deserve Extra Attention

The base size normally receives the most development attention because that is where the initial fit is created.

Problems may become more visible as grading moves farther away from that base.

Suppose your base size is Medium.

The pattern for Large is only one grade away.

But 3XL may be four grade steps away.

Small changes accumulate.

Areas worth examining particularly carefully at the extremes include:

• armhole depth
• shoulder width
• neck opening
• sleeve width
• body length
• rise
• thigh width
• waist extension

This is why, when a complete size set is not practical, reviewing the base size plus representative sizes near both ends of the range can be much more informative than checking several neighbouring sizes around Medium.

Extended Sizes May Need More Than Simple Linear Grading

Another mistake is assuming that every size must increase using exactly the same grade.

For example:

S → M → L → XL → 2XL → 3XL

does not necessarily mean every measurement should increase by an identical amount at every step.

Some brands use different grade rules in extended sizes because body proportions do not always scale uniformly.

A hypothetical specification might use:

Chest

S → M: +3 cm
M → L: +3 cm
L → XL: +3 cm
XL → 2XL: +4 cm
2XL → 3XL: +4 cm

Whether that is appropriate depends on the brand’s target body measurements, fit philosophy and product.

The important point is that extended sizes should be designed intentionally, not produced simply by continuously enlarging the base pattern without reviewing the result.

Youth Sizes Should Not Simply Be Scaled-Down Adult Sizes

This matters particularly for sportswear manufacturers producing team kits.

A club may order:

• adult jerseys
• youth jerseys
• children’s shorts
• adult tracksuits

It can be tempting to treat the entire range as one grading ladder.

But children’s body proportions differ from adult proportions, meaning a youth range may require a separate pattern block and grading logic rather than simply shrinking an adult garment.

For teamwear programs covering both children and adults, buyers should therefore clearly identify where the youth range ends and adult sizing begins.

The transition should be checked physically.

Stretch Sportswear Needs a Different Kind of Size-Set Review

Size-set approval becomes particularly important for:

• compression shirts
• leggings
• cycling jerseys
• cycling bibs
• fitted running apparel
• wrestling singlets
• base layers

A loose football jersey primarily relies on garment dimensions and ease.

Compression garments interact much more directly with fabric stretch and the wearer’s body.

Two fabrics cut from exactly the same pattern can produce very different fit if they have different:

• stretch percentages
• recovery characteristics
• fabric weights
• constructions
• elastane contents
• finishing

This means a size set made in substitute fabric may be useful for early development but may not prove the final fit of a highly stretch-dependent product.

For fitted performance garments, the most meaningful fit approval should therefore use fabric representative of the intended bulk material.

Do You Need Every Size in the Size Set?

Not always.

There are two common strategies.

Full Size Set

For:

XS – S – M – L – XL – 2XL – 3XL

the manufacturer produces one or more samples in every size.

This provides the strongest verification because every graded size can be measured and reviewed.

It is particularly valuable when:

• the style is new
• the size range is wide
• the product is fitted
• youth and adult sizes are involved
• extended sizes are important
• the pattern block has not been used previously
• the order quantity is large
• the product will be reordered repeatedly

Selected Size Set

Instead of all seven sizes, the buyer might review:

XS + M + 3XL

or:

S + L + 2XL

The idea is to test the grading at strategic points.

For example, reviewing the smallest, base and largest sizes gives visibility across the full grading range.

This can be reasonable for simpler garments, established pattern blocks or repeat products where previous production has already validated the intermediate sizes.

Industry sources describe both complete size runs and selected representative size sets depending on the development workflow.

When Should You Not Skip a Size Set?

A size set becomes more valuable as the cost of a sizing mistake increases.

Consider using a fuller approval process when producing:

A New Product

A completely new pattern has no production history.

A Wide Size Range

XS–5XL creates much more grading risk than M–XL.

Fitted or Compression Sportswear

Small differences can strongly affect comfort and performance.

Youth and Adult Teamwear

Two different body groups may require different grading systems.

Large Bulk Orders

Finding a grading error after 5,000 garments have been cut is very different from finding it during sampling.

Retail Products

Sizing problems can lead directly to returns and negative customer feedback.

Repeat Programs

If the garment will be reordered for several seasons, validating the size range properly during development creates a stronger reference for future production.

When Might a Full Size Set Be Unnecessary?

A complete size run can sometimes be reduced when risk is genuinely low.

For example:

• the factory has already produced the identical style
• the exact pattern and grade have previously been approved
• the same fabric and construction are being reused
• only colours or artwork are changing
• the size range is narrow
• the style is loose fitting
• previous bulk production has demonstrated consistent sizing

Even then, the buyer should make sure that no material change has occurred that could affect fit.

Changing from a stable polyester jersey fabric to a high-stretch polyester-elastane fabric, for example, can turn what appears to be a repeat style into a new fit problem.

How to Review a Size Set Properly

Do not approve the samples simply because they look acceptable on a table.

Use a structured review.

Step 1: Confirm You Have the Correct Revision

Check:

• tech pack revision
• pattern revision
• measurement chart revision
• fabric
• construction
• sample date

A perfectly made sample from an outdated specification is still the wrong sample.

Step 2: Measure Every Critical POM

Create a measurement report such as:

Repeat this for each sampled size.

Step 3: Compare Grade Progression

Do not look at each column independently.

Compare:

S → M
M → L
L → XL

Are the size changes behaving as intended?

Step 4: Compare the Garments Visually

Lay neighbouring sizes on top of each other or side by side.

This can quickly reveal:

• sudden shoulder jumps
• unusual sleeve changes
• inconsistent lengths
• distorted armholes
• necklines that barely change
• incorrect pattern pieces

A smooth graded range should generally show a logical progression.

Step 5: Conduct Fit Checks Where Necessary

For fit-sensitive products, physical measurements alone are insufficient.

Evaluate:

• mobility
• chest and shoulder restriction
• arm movement
• neckline comfort
• waist security
• rise
• squat movement
• compression level
• sleeve and leg length

A sports garment is worn while moving, not lying flat on a QC table.

Step 6: Record Size-Specific Comments

Avoid comments such as:

“XL fit is wrong.”

Instead write:

“XL front armhole feels restrictive. Increase front armhole depth by 0.7 cm while maintaining approved chest width.”

Clear comments reduce interpretation and make the next sample easier to evaluate.

A Practical Size Set Approval Checklist

Before approving a custom sportswear size set, check:

• Correct tech pack revision used
• Correct graded measurement chart used
• Correct Points of Measurement used
• All critical POMs within tolerance
• Grade increments checked between sizes
• Tolerances do not cause neighbouring sizes to overlap excessively
• Smallest size reviewed
• Largest size reviewed
• Extended sizes reviewed where applicable
• Youth/adult transition checked where applicable
• Garment proportions remain balanced
• Neck and armholes scale properly
• Sleeve and body lengths progress correctly
• Fit-sensitive sizes physically tested where necessary
• Stretch garments tested in representative fabric
• All corrections recorded by size
• Final graded specification updated after approval

Keep the approved measurement report together with the final tech pack and approved sample.

That creates a much clearer production reference than an email simply saying:

“Size set approved.”

What Happens After the Size Set Is Approved?

Once grading and fit are accepted, the approved information should be transferred into the controlled production specification.

Depending on the manufacturer’s workflow, the next step may involve approving the pre-production sample, final materials and decoration, or authorising bulk preparation.

The PP sample is generally intended to represent the production-ready garment using the approved fabric, trims, construction and other final details.

One important rule remains:

Do not allow bulk production to follow an older specification than the one used to approve the final samples.

If the 2XL sleeve was changed during size-set approval, that correction needs to appear in the final graded measurement chart and production pattern.

Otherwise, the entire purpose of sampling is lost.

Final Takeaway

A size set sample answers something that a single fit sample cannot:

Does the garment work across the entire size range?

For sportswear buyers, that means checking more than whether XS, M and 2XL individually fall inside a measurement tolerance.

A good size-set review checks:

• finished measurements
• size-to-size grading
• garment proportions
• smallest and largest sizes
• movement and fit
• fabric behaviour
• extended sizes
• youth/adult sizing
• consistency with the approved tech pack

The wider the size range and the more fitted or technical the sportswear, the more valuable this stage becomes.

Finding that the 3XL armhole is wrong while reviewing three samples is relatively easy to fix.

Finding it after the factory has cut hundreds or thousands of 3XL jerseys is not.

Custom Sportswear Sampling With Byon Textile

At Byon Textile, custom sportswear development can include sampling, pattern development, sizing and bulk manufacturing according to the requirements of the project.

For teams, clubs and sportswear brands, providing clear size charts, garment measurements, artwork and product requirements at the beginning of development helps create a more controlled path from the first sample to bulk production.

Whether you are developing custom jerseys, shorts, tracksuits, training wear or performance apparel, Byon Textile can work with your specifications to develop and manufacture your custom sportswear.